June 6

Today we visited a little slice of heaven!

One of my cousin's daughters (he has two) and her significant other have a small cabin on the confluence of Vltava and Sázava rivers. They have been refurbishing it for the last four years and it looks lovely.

The cabin has no electricity, water, sewer, phone and no internet (unless you use your cellphone) The fridge is fuelled by propane and so is the stove, what little electricity they use is made with the solar panels on the roof which seems to be adequate for the lights and even some power-tools as the cabin is constantly being updated. And, of course, a real outhouse. The family can use this cabin year round. 

The cabin is located within a hundred meters of the point of land where the two rivers meet in a very nice valley full of holiday retreats, cabins and pensions (B&Bs).

To get there one parks his vehicle in a parking lot on the other side of the river and takes a boat across the river to the cabin. There are no roads so everything needs to come over water. We were joined later by my cousin's other daughter and her two girls and below you can see the local river transport.

As there is no traffic and abundant fishing in the rivers, the area is home to some interesting wildlife. Apparently they are frequently visited by wild pigs, otters, ducks, swans and a myriad of song birds.

A couple of Swans with a bunch of signets

A river otter

These animals are so used to humans they seem to have no fear of people at all. 

We have spent a very nice afternoon with family and some new friends and the day was capped off by a camp fire and roasting of smokies from a local butcher.

As the afternoon changed into an evening we took a stroll to the point where the two rivers meet and saw some very nice cabins there.

One of the neighbours had a couple of fibreglass boats which he joined together with some decking and turned it into a sort of catamaran boat. it was big enough to transport all of us across the river.

This was our last outing of our holidays. Tomorrow we will be cleaning the apartment so we can "return" it in the same state we found it when we moved in almost two months ago, cancel the internet, pack and get ready to fly home on Monday. I will be leaving this place with a heavy heart as there are still many memories of my youth here. 

Already started making plans for next year!

June 2

Yesterday was a bit of a sentimental and nostalgic journey. My grandparents on my father's side lived in a small village of Nová Ves and as a kid I used to ride a train there just about every weekend in the spring and summer. The railway line is one of those single track country spurs that runs about 60Km south east of Prague partly through the beautiful Vltava river valley and then climbs up to the top of the ridge where it continues along the top of the range through a bunch of small settlements and villages.

Cathie and I bought tickets and boarded the train at the Branik train station in Prague

and rode it to the end point at Dobříš.

The yellow train on the right was our train. A little three car diesel powered unit. The train did make a whistle stop at Nová Ves, however, I wasn't able to see my old grandparent's house from the train. 

This is some of the scenery that the train rolls through. The last time I rode this this line was when I was twelve! The train got a little newer and the tracks got a little bumpier. Other than that nothing much changed.

As a point of interest, the tickets cost us 196.00 CK return for both of us together. That wold be the equivalent of about five bucks each!

In the next couple of days we are going to do some last minute sightseeing in Prague, visit with my cousin's daughter at their cabin on the Vltava River, settle my internet bill, cancel my phone service, clean-up the apartment use of which was so graciously donated by my cousin"s friend whose mom owns the apartment but lives in Sweden, take my cousins to a farewell dinner to thank them for all they've done for us, pack and get ready to fly home on Monday. Not looking forward to the goodbyes.

May 30

Yesterday we headed out to Českỷ Ráj (Bohemian Paradise). This area is a very beautiful part of Bohemia full of gorgeous valleys, pastures, old castles and rocks. Some of the villages we drove through look like they have not been touched by time at al. However, most of the farms and houses are really well cared for, nicely painted and the yards are well landscaped.  

After driving through the area we stopped at Prachovské Jeskyňe (Prachov Rocks) which are sandstone rock formations eroded by wind and water into a field of interesting columns and other formations. The National Tourist Board has created some excellent trails through the rocks that wind, climb and squeeze through the various rocks. It was declared a protected area since the mid fifties.

The trails are paths winding through the area and are mostly composed of some form of steps as the climb up is quite long and quite demanding.

Once up on top the views are stunning

It is even possible to make out ruins of an old castle Trosky in the distance

The climb back down is in places even more difficult as the trail snakes between two very close columns and if I were a bit bigger in girth, I might have become part of the landscape.

After visiting the rocks, getting some refreshments and a bit of rest for our legs we continued on to Podĕbrady which is yet another spa town with mineral springs, hotels and a beautiful park. And a famous flower clock. They even rearrange the plants daily to reflect the current date. This picture was taken at 6:00pm. For a bunch flowers, this clock was pretty accurate...

It is also a birthplace of one of Czech Kings Jiří z Podĕbrad 

Phew, that was a full day. I really want to thank my cousin Roman for all the driving. Although the distances are quite short, the roads are narrow and quite winding.

May 28

Today we visited with an old classmate of mine from high school. He lives in a quiet little valley under the Prague Semmering Railway Line. This viaduct is just a couple of blocks from his house.

He has a small company making ready to eat snacks, sandwiches, cheese snacks, fried cheese, utopence (pickled sausages), pickled herring and other very tasty things. He and his wife took us to a typical Czech pub for some excellent beer and some live Czech country and western music. The group was pretty good for a bunch of old guys just sitting around the table, playing music.

As a parting gift, my friend gave us a box of excellent pickled herring

and a box of open faced sandwiches

It was fun getting it home on two buses and a metro train.

The reason that we had to use transit to get home is because Czech Republic has a zero tolerance for drinking and driving and the consequences of being caught with any level of blood alcohol are staggering. People simply don't drink when they have to drive and don't drive when they had a beer. This does not seem to be an issue as the transit system here is really good and you can get to places faster than driving.

May 27

Today we wanted to do something different. We bought tickets on one of the local railway lines linking Prague with Rudná. Rudná is about 40km south-east of Prague. This little commuter line consists of one self powered railway car and it putt-putts a roundabout way out of Prague through some very interesting scenery and several villages.

Our little train

Inside of the car

And here is our final destination. This is a very typical country railway station building.

We did not get a chance to explore Rudna as we only had about six minutes before train took off for the return trip. The next train wasn't due for another two and a half hours.

Worthy of a mention: On monday we took another walking tour through the centre of Prague and saw what is probably one of the best looking Synagogues in the world. It is the Jerusalem Synagogue on Jerusalem Street built in 1906.

May 25

Krkonoše.

Yesterday we drove north to one of Czech mountain ranges Krkonoše. These mountains are on the border between Czech Republic and Poland. It is a very popular destination for skiing and other winter snow sports and also in the summer for hiking and bike riding. The resorts are open year round.

We travelled through many small towns where the main industries were glass blowing and crystal making as well as textile manufacturing. Sadly, lot of the factories are now closed and abandoned.

The view from the foothills into the Czech country is quite spectacular.

The ski resort we visited is one of the big three and its name is Harrachov. It is at the foot of Čertová Hora (Devil's Mountain) It has several excellent downhill ski runs and also has the biggest ski jump in the Czech Republic - Čertovka. 

It is one of the longest Ski Flying ranges and it can accommodate up to 50,000 spectators.

The bottom of the chairlift with kids trampoline in the foreground

Some of the interesting wood carvings.

After visiting Harrachov we drove in the direction of Les Kralovství via small town of Hostinné. This year the town celebrates its 750th anniversary.

The Town Hall tower is protected by a pair of giants.

The Dam at Les Kralovství was build between 1910 and 1914 and finished (to provide electricity) in 1919 (WW1 intervened) It is built in a beautiful mediaeval gothic style, however using modern (1910) building materials such a reinforced concrete.  

The power house with its two turbines has a nominal output of 2.12 Mega Watts.

After visiting the dam we stopped at one of the roadside inns and had a lovely lunch.

Because Harrachov is so close to Poland we drove across the border for a quick visit. Since Poland is also part of EU there is no visible border crossing. The only way you can tell you're in Poland is that all of a sudden all signs are in Polish.

With this last foray into Poland it makes five countries we visited this spring: England (London - Heathrow), Czech Republic, Germany (Dresden), France (Paris) and Poland.

May 24

Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad)
My cousin and his wife have really treated us today. They drove us to Karlovy Vary. Karlovy Vary is a town in the western most part of Bohemia and is a world renown spa town. The town has 13 different mineral springs and each one is said to cure different ills. I have tried them all. It is also said that after consuming said mineral waters, one will need to quickly avail him or herself of the many available toilet facilities. I have no first hand experience with this as I only sampled and sipped the waters.

The town is laid out along the banks of Teplá Řeka (Warm River) and, in fact, the river is warm as some of its composition are thermal springs. By the way, all the mineral spring range in temperature between 30 and 72 degrees Celsius.

Karlovy Vary was founded in 1370 by King Charles IV. there are some remnants of the original settlement, however most of the buildings are  from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. More information is available on Wikipedia under Karlovy Vary.

THis is the colonnade where some of the 13 springs are located 

Teplá Řeka

The Grand Hotel Pupp. This hotel was used in the 007 movie Casino Royale.

Another view of the Colonnade.

Tomorrow off to the mountains.